A good sump pump is the only thing standing between you and a basement full of water, so it makes sense to implement a good maintenance plan for your pump. A lot of Dover homeowners don’t even think about their sump pumps, however, probably because they are buried out of sight, but the only way to know for sure that it will work when you need it most is to keep it in good operating condition. Here are some tips to help you do just that:

• Check the GFCI – Your sump pump should be plugged into a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). This is a special outlet that keeps the system from getting waterlogged. If it gets damp, it shuts down, turning off your sump pump. Unfortunately, GFCIs can be faulty or break, so check it regularly to make sure it is always on.
• Upright Operation – If you have a standing sump pump, make sure it stays upright and doesn’t fall over when operating. These things can move a lot and if they do fall over, they may not pump properly.
• Test it Regularly – Pour water into the sump pit when empty to make sure it will work when needed. Most people who need emergency service could have pinpointed the problem weeks or months earlier if they had known the system was broken.
• Check the Outlet Pipes – Check the outlet pipes regularly for leaks or damage. If they start leaking back into the foundation, they can cause damage or leakage into the basement.
• Clean the Grate – Submersible pumps are often left to sit in their pits for months or even years without cleaning. At least once a year, remove the sump pump from its pit and clean away any gunk that’s built up. Stones or debris in the pump can break the motor if left unchecked.

A good sump pump is all that stands between your home and a boat load of water whenever it rains. To keep your home clean and dry, check your pump often and if necessary, call someone for routine maintenance.

Most of the problems that pop up with sump pumps can be avoided entirely if they are maintained on an annual basis. Sometimes you may need to call a professional for advanced cleaning or part replacement. If so, try and do so before the raining season starts.

Everyone at Boulden Brothers wishes you a Happy Hanukkah! Have a great holiday with your friends and family. This time of year is all about being thankful for what you have, and we want to thank you all for making our business possible! Enjoy celebrating eight days of gift giving! Here is a great recipe for Vegetable and Feta Latkes that will make your Hanukkah even better:

Vegetable and Feta Latkes

“Try this colorful take on traditional potato pancakes. Stir shredded zucchini, potatoes and carrots into a batter of eggs, matzo meal, parsley and feta cheese. Fry until golden brown. You’ll love the creamy bite of feta with the tender veggie crunch.”

INGREDIENTS:

2 1/2 cups grated zucchini

1 cup peeled and shredded potatoes

1 cup shredded carrots

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs, lightly beaten

salt to taste

freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup matzo meal

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

1/4 cup vegetable oil

DIRECTIONS:

1. Place the zucchini, potato and carrots in a colander, place paper towels or a cheesecloth over the top and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Sprinkle salt over the vegetables and let them drain for 15 minutes. Squeeze vegetable again in paper towels.
2. In a large mixing bowl combine eggs, vegetables, salt and pepper. Mix well. Stir in matzo meal or flour, parsley and feta.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a large frying pan. Place vegetable mixture, formed into pancake sized cakes in hot oil and fry until golden brown on both sides. (Cook two to three minutes per side). Add more oil as needed to keep cakes frying up well. Drain fried latkes on paper towels.

For more details, visit allrecipes.com.

While there are some relatively simple plumbing jobs that most Port Deposit homeowners can handle with ease, there are some plumbing problems that have a significantly higher degree of difficulty.

For these trickier or more extensive jobs, you really need to call in a professional. What kinds of projects are we talking about here?

Take for example a simple clogged drain. Whether it’s your tub or your kitchen sink, you’ve certainly encountered a clog over the years. Sometimes they are simple and easy to deal with, so you decide to tackle it on your own. First, you pour some commercial chemical drain clearing product down the drain. You let it sit for a while, like the instructions say, then run the water.

No luck—the drain is still clogged.

So, you try a pipe snake. You thread it down into the drain and through the pipe until it hits the clog. Then you pull back and…nothing. So you try again and again, really jamming the snag down in there to make it engage the clog, until…it breaks.

Now you’ve got a clog and a broken pipe snake in there.

So, you try more drain cleaner, but of course it doesn’t work again, and now the harsh chemicals are taking a toll on your pipes. You decide to just take the length of pipe out so you can see the clog, then remove it. Soon, you find yourself in over your head and you’re not sure how to replace the pipe.

Yikes. That’s a mess.

This isn’t to say you should never attempt to a plumbing repair on your own. Sometimes they are simple enough that the DIY option is the cheapest and best. However, if your efforts are coming up short and you’re about to enter unfamiliar territory, call in a pro. It will save time, money and headaches in the long run.

Every year millions of homeowners buy a new HVAC system for their home. Whether for heating, cooling or air quality, they make a huge investment in a new system that will be with them for years to come. Unfortunately, many of those people make big mistakes when buying their next system, so to help you avoid doing so, here are some simple things you should not do.

1. Ignoring Air Quality – Air quality is about more than comfort. It affects the health of everyone in your home equally. Consider it carefully when installing a new system.
2. Avoiding Even Heating and Cooling – One room being cooler or warmer than another is not okay. It’s bad for your system and bad for your home’s comfort level. Have insulation and ductwork checked before installation of a new HVAC system.
3. Not Upgrading Your AFUE or SEER – New systems are highly efficient. Take advantage of that by buying one with a higher AFUE or SEER rating.
4. Not Vetting Your Contractor – Always spend time checking up on your contractor, reading reviews and asking other customers how their experience was.
5. Skipping the Service Agreement – Service agreements save money and help your system last longer. Don’t skip them.
6. Buying the Cheapest Option Available – It may be tempting, but a cheap HVAC system is a bad idea if you want it to last and save you money in heating and cooling. Even a midrange system will save you money in only a few years with higher efficiency ratings.
7. Picking the Same Model You Already Had – New models are stronger and more efficient. When possible, get an upgrade and your bills will reflect the difference.
8. Waiting too Long to Buy – The longer you wait, the more you pay in heating and cooling bills for an old, worn down system. If you know you’re going to buy a new system, act fast to save the most possible money.
9. Not Asking Questions – If you have a question, ask it. There is no such thing as a stupid question when looking for a new HVAC system.
10. Ignoring Maintenance Recommendations – Maintenance recommendations are optional but almost always to your benefit. Research on your own before committing to anything, but don’t ignore the necessity either.

If you do things just right, your new HVAC system will last for years to come and provide steady, comfortable heating or cooling throughout that time. But, if you rush through things, make a hasty decision and neglect to do any research, you may have issues with your system in far less time than you’d like. Be smart and you’ll be rewarded.

These tips are from Boulden’s One Hour Heating & Air Conditioning, our partner company. Visit their blog to get some more heating and air conditioning information.

Hard water is fairly common, even in Yorklyn. It is called hard water because of the minerals in it, such as calcium, iron and lime. Depending on how “hard” the water is, it’s usually perfectly healthy, but can cause some other problems throughout the home.

Hard water can negatively affect the durability of household appliances like dishwashers and washing machines, as well as pipes and fixtures throughout the home. How do you know if you have hard water? Here are some common signs and symptoms to be on the lookout for:

1. A white, scaly, filmy residue left behind on plumbing fixtures. In particular, you may notice these on showerheads, on stainless fixtures like the basin of your kitchen sink, on your silverware or in the coffee pot.
2. Clothes that are not getting as clean as they should in the laundry. This is because hard water is less effective at washing away dirt. Likewise, you may notice soap scum residue in your tub or shower.
3. Little or no lather from shampoo or soap while showering.
4. A reddish tinge to hair over time. This is due to iron in the water that can temporarily change hair color in the shower.
5. Water takes a long time to heat, or heating costs that are higher than usual. This is because hard water requires more heat than water with fewer minerals in it.
6. A foul odor emanating from your water.

If you notice any of these signs, or a combination of them, you may have hard water. There are certain things you can do to control the effects of hard water, such as using a commercial mineral remover to dissolve deposits left on showerheads and other fixtures. Vinegar also works well.

However, the best thing to do is to treat hard water so that it does not damage your plumbing system. A licensed plumber can help you do this by adding water softener to your water supply, among other treatments. These are things that need to be done on an ongoing basis, but will help extend the life of your expensive appliances and plumbing system.

Under normal circumstances, after you flush your toilet in your Frederica home, the tank and bowl both fill back up with water, preparing it for the next use. The water from the tank is what flushes into the bowl when you push the handle, so if it is not filling properly, then the toilet will be dry.

This problem is troublesome, but not uncommon. It has a number of possible causes and fixes.

The first place to look is the water supply to the tank. If it has been inadvertently turned off, then obviously the tank will not fill. This is akin to the troubleshooting section of your old VCR manual, where it tells you to make sure the power cord is plugged in. It may sound silly, but it never hurts to check the most obvious and easily fixed of the possible causes first.

Another possibility that is very easy to fix is that the ballcock inside the tank has jammed at the top. Inside your toilet tank is a rubberized bulb connected to an arm. This bulb floats in water and controls the intake valve on the toilet tank. So, when the water level reaches a certain depth, the ballcock floats and closes the valve. However, if the ballcock is jammed in an upward position, it would keep the valve closed even if the tank is empty.

In this case, it may just be a matter of pushing the ballcock past the jam and then making sure it moves up and down freely. That alone may fix it.

A third common cause of the dry toilet problem is a clogged intake valve beneath the toilet. These valves can become clogged and then not allow water through, especially in systems with hard water or particularly old pipes.

If this is the problem – or if it is anything besides one of the two simple fixes described above – the best solution is to call aplumber. A professional can correctly identify the source of the problem and perform the necessary repairs. It’s likely not going to be a huge repair, but it’s best to entrust the job to a pro.

Every now and then something strange happens that is simultaneously baffling and frustrating. Gray water from your washing machine backing up into your sink is one such problem and for many Elk Mills homeowners it can be an ongoing source of annoyance.

Why does this happen? To start with, know that your sink and washing machine drain lines tend to run congruent to each other. This means they combine at some point on the way to the main sewer line. So, if there is a problem after they combine, it can affect both systems.

How to Fix the Problem

First, you must pinpoint the problem. More often than not, a washing machine backup will occur in one or more sinks during or after the drain cycle of your washing machine. This may not happen every time or it may get progressively worse. It depends on why it is happening in the first place.

If the sink doesn’t back up on its own when you do the dishes or run the faucet, the clog is probably deeper in the pipes and only responds to the large volume of water being drained from your washing machine. In either case, you probably have a clog in the drainage pipe after the two combine.

Do NOT use any chemicals to clear the clog. Not only do chemicals cause damage to your pipes, which can lead to cracks and leaks later, they are not always effective at actually removing the problem – they simply minimize it in the short term.

To solve the problem, you’ll either need to plunge the sink and hopefully clear out the clog or have someone snake the line to pull the clog out of the drain pipe. If you cannot clear it on your own, it may be a good time to call a plumber for a more in-depth attempt to fix the problem.

Owning a home is a joy in and of itself. There is an undeniable satisfaction that accompanies being the master of your own domain. Unfortunately, that also means being the master of all the maintenance in that domain. Being proactive in doing regular, preventive maintenance is the best strategy to keep your house in shape and reduce costs, but that can grow tiresome.

So, it behooves you to try to create the most durable home possible by using materials that require less maintenance. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a maintenance-free home – the term “sweat equity” exists for a reason – but here are some tips to make your home more durable:

Flooring:

1. Carpet is very durable and, with advances in stain resistance technology, easier to keep clean than in the past.
2. For homes with small children or pets, ceramic tile is a good option, as it easier to clean than carpeting and is also very durable.
3. Use treated lumber for outdoor decks, and add a water seal after building. The former will deter termites; the latter will prevent rotting due to water damage.

Roofing:

1. Choose the right shingle for where you live. Asphalt shingles come in a variety of thicknesses, each designed to withstand more wear. You might also consider shingles made of another material, such as metal or clay, where appropriate.
2. For areas that get a lot of snow, consider a sheet metal roof. Usually made from aluminum or steel, metal roofs stand up better to harsh winters. Snow also slides off the metal easier, meaning less time clearing snow off the roof in the winter.

Windows:

1. Energy-efficient windows help keep the elements out, putting less of a strain on your heating, cooling and ventilation systems, so they will require less maintenance. They also contribute to lower energy costs.
2. Select window frames made from durable aluminum or hardwood, both of which are less likely to deteriorate and need repair over time.

Sealants and insulation are other areas where you have the opportunity to choose more durable materials.

This information is from Boulden’s One Hour Heating & Air Conditioning, our partner company that provides air conditioningand heating repair, maintenance, and installation in New Castle, Cecil and Kent Counties, Delaware. Visit their blog for more HVAC tips!

Whether your old faucet is broken or you just want to spruce up your West Grove home’s bathroom a bit, installing a new faucet is a relatively cheap and easy solution. It is one plumbing project that can be done via the DIY route, it takes only a few hours to do and it does not cost much.

Before you get started, make sure you have chosen the right type of faucet as a replacement. There are a few different kinds and you will want to replace the old sink with a similar kind in order to prevent problems and headaches during and after installation. If you’re unsure what kind you need, either consult the manual, take a picture to bring with you to the store or have a plumber take a look at it.

Once you have the right faucet picked out, it’s time to get to work:

1. As always, turn off the water supply. There should be shutoff valves for the hot and cold water supplies right underneath the sink to make it easy on you.
2. Unscrew the drain collar from the drain rim. Making sure everything is clean, place the house in the center of the middle hole. Screw it in place with the mounting nut. Tighten it up with a basin wrench, but take care not to overtighten. This can crack the porcelain.
3. To install the hot and cold valves, begin by loosening the mounting nut on one and removing it. Replace it with the corresponding new valve. Repeat on the other side.
4. Screw the braided lines to the valves you just installed, as well as to the spout. Tighten with a wrench, but again take care not to over tighten.
5. Secure the faucet handles onto the valves that you installed in step #3. Make sure to put each handle on the correct valve.
6. Fit the supply lines. You may have to do some cutting if you are using rigid supply lines rather than braided ones.
7. Assemble and connect the pop-up drain assembly. You may have to test and adjust it a few times in order to get the right fit when open and closed. Secure the rods in place.
8. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. Turn on the faucet for a bit to flush out the system before using.

Your sparkling new faucet is all set! And if you need any help, don’t hesitate to call your local plumber!

Have you ever noticed that U-shaped length of pipe below your Earleville home’s bathroom or kitchen sink? Does it ever seem to you like it doesn’t make sense to have that in there? It seems counterintuitive to have the water run any direction other than straight down.

Well, that little bend is the drain trap, and it keeps nasty odors and gases from wafting their way up through the plumbing and into your home. The U shape of the trap precludes the normal upward drift of the gases, so they don’t make it up through your drain.

After a while, these traps can become corroded, choked with debris or entirely clogged to such a degree that it needs to be replaced. When this happens, it is important to take care of this right away.

As with any plumbing project, the first step is to turn off the main water supply. Don’t worry about the inconvenience; the whole process will take less than an hour.

Next, remove all the pieces of the existing drain trap. Use a pipe wrench and/or slip-joint pliers to remove the nuts and pull the trap free. Attach a tailpiece washer to your new tailpiece, and then attach the tailpiece to the sink strainer. You may need to cut the tailpiece to length with a hacksaw.

With a slip nut and washer, affix the trap arm to the drain stub. Again, you may need to cut the trap arm to length.

Finally, attach the trap bend to the trap arm, making sure the beveled face of the washer faces the trap bend. Tighten all the nuts and turn the water back on. Run a little water down the drain and check for leaks before using it. You may need to tighten some joints or apply Teflon tape in some places.

Once everything is all sealed up, you’re good to go! Your new drain trap is in place and ready to use.